We have just arrived in Astana Kazakhstan (after traversing, for the most part, quite nice roads!) and I think the general consensus is none of us know where the tans end, and the dust and dirt begins. That being said, Kazakhstani (?) people have been some of the absolute nicest we’ve encountered so far (though their border was not the most efficient).
We are currently in convoy with Catch us if you Khan, Cake or Death, The Mad Hatters (yes! after a straight 52 hour period of driving and seven garages later, they have managed to re-join us!), Brighton to Bataar, and a new team we joined in a small Kazakhstan town, Backflips and somersaults.
Our first day in Kazakhstan was sort of a mixed one, which epitomized a lot of what the rally is about I think. We ended up pulling over in the smallish border town of Troick (Troisk? not sure how it’s spelled outside of Cyrillic) for some money and some groceries. Unfortunately, the Bank machines had a weird habit of taking our cards for extended periods of time before FINALLY returning them, without allowing us to take out any money (I think John of Catch us if you Khan was the only one who got any out, and he went first), and so we attrached some attention from the locals, and three boys came over to ask if we were okay. They kindly showed Dancy and I to where a grocery store was, and Nick managed to be-friend four other individuals, who ALSO led them to the same convenience type store and proceeded to buy us about a 5L bottle of beer, and some dried fish. We then amassed a group of about forty or fifty locals, who all gathered around our cars asking questions, chugging beer, and drinking very salty dried fish. It was absolutely awesome! there were only a couple people who really spoke any english, a girl studying linguisitics, and a boy from Uzbekistan (who subsequently, should be adding us to Facebook!) but somehow we got our point across, talking about everything from Geography to Russian pop stars. It was nearing two am by the time we gathered our things, exchanged presents (a couple Russian flags for us!) and headed to the border.
The border itself was a bit of a nightmare, mostly because of the giant mass of cars waiting to get through. Our car popped on some planet earth, and promptly faded in and out of consciousness. By the time we finally reached Kazakhstan customs, it was about 7am and we were quite out of it. Thankfully, it was a pretty straightforward process, they asked us for $240, we said no and pretended we had no idea what they were referring to (and even tried to give it in Russian currency - a fairly useless sum), and they gave up. They began the process of searching our cars, we distracted them by asking them to sign our cars, and they very quickly became flattered and let us go….all in all, one of the more painless border crossings (especially on the wallet). We ended up pulling up to a random field to sleep for a couple hours, and then made our way in the direcion of Astana.
Unfortunately, on our way, we had to travel through a city called Kustanay, and, in classic convoy fashion we got EXCEPTIONALLY lost. It was compuinded by the fact that we were all SUPER overtired and underfed, meaning everyone was snapping at everyone else and we weren’t making much progress. When we eventually found the road, we didn’t have much left in us to drive (or much daylight), and so we pulled into a smaller town further down the way called Aluekol (or something similar) and MAN did we cause a commotion. Just searching for a Bank machine, we found ourselves at the police station (which we soon discovered was also the towns only ATM), but once we got money we needed to locate a hotel, and there wasn’t any in sight. The police spoke almost no english, so they called a couple Peace Corps volunteers who were in the area teaching english to come set us up - everyone was so nice! they brought us to the store for some snacks before they closed, took us to a restaurant, and set out trying to find us a hotel. Because the town was so small, there wasn’t an ACTUAL hotel. They briefly toyed with the idea of us staying in the local boarding school (that would have been awesome!) but the chief didn’t like that idea, they they eventually settled on a hotel about 5km away (all we really wanted was a shower!). The police then personally escorted us to the hotel, negotiated a good price, AND stayed the night to ensure we weren’t ripped off or robbed. Wonderful. After a few beers, we all passed out until well into the next day.
The producitve members of our convoy managed to tour a slaughterhouse, and a saw mill (where we were given a genuine wooden pigs trough!) before we all grabbed some food (a whole half of a chicken for Dancy and I?) and decided to head out (at this point we needed to change a tire on Max, and we all did a collective car clean).
We are now in Astana, and the hotel, while good, doesn’t like us too much but we can’t be bothered to care. Max had a bit of a puncture in his oil tank, so we had to put him in the garage for the night and hoepfulyl he’ll be all sorted when we get him today (we werre supposed to pick him up last night and that didn’t happen, so hopefully he’s alright!). Cake or Death is having some car problems as well, so we’re not sure how much progress we’ll make today, but we’re hoping to make it to close to the Russian border. I forgot to mention, John of Catch us if you Khan does NOT have a visa for Kazakhstan, so he’s had to train it to Barnaul, where we will pick him up on our way to the Mongolian border, so we’re hoping to get a bit of a move on in that respect.
We will do our best to keep you guys updated, but internet seems to be getter few and far between. For now, we are relatively well rested (if not a little hungover), well fed and loving the Kazakhstan people!